Velo Spirit » Aubrac… a ride through forgotten France
Aubrac… a ride through forgotten France
With it’s air of the Asian steppe, the Aubrac Plateau is a perfect destination for a cycling getaway. With the Tour des Monts d’Aubrac hiking route as a rough guide, Pascal, Géraldine, Eliott and Polo put together a route along the quiet lanes and wild tracks of this high country. They met more cows than locals en route…
Photos: Pascal Gaudin Text: Géraldine Benestar
This article is supported by FRANCE BIKE TRIPS
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At over 1000 metres above sea level, the Aubrac Plateau is a vast pastoral region, home to numerous herds of cattle. At the end of summer, the tan coloured cows blend in perfectly with the onset of autumn colours.
![un grand alpage jaune et des troupeaux en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-14.jpg)
Mountain bikes offer the opportunity to criss-cross the pastures on a network of panoramic bridleways and tracks.
![2 vététistes voyageant sur le plateau de l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-21.jpg)
With a rich network of quiet lanes that wind their way through wild and unspoilt countryside, the area is perfect for backroad cycling.
![une belle route du plateau de l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-20.jpg)
Cattle breeding is the dominant farming activity in the Aubrac. There are cows everywhere!
![portrait de vache Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-8.jpg)
The Aubrac is also the name of the local breed of cattle, easily recognisable from their tan hides and distinctive horns. The area is home to numerous farms, pillar of the local economy.
![une belle route et un panneau vantant la race Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-15.jpg)
A stand off as cows meet cyclists. Curiosity on both sides...
![un vélo à l'arrêt devant un troupeau de vaches](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-13.jpg)
The footpaths invariably cross the cow pastures. Ever curious, they often follow the bikes over a short distance, before seeming to lose interest.
![2 vélos sur le Tour des Monts d'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-4.jpg)
Dropping into the lower lying valleys that border the plateau, the vegetation becomes more abundant, including beech forests. Numerous streams begin life on the Aubrac, before descending the deep valleys (known locally as "boraldes"), and on to the Lot River.
![à vélo sur une route qui descend du plateau de l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-1.jpg)
To the south-west, at 800 metres above sea level, Saint Chély d'Aubrac is a regular stopover on the famous Chemin de Compostelle (Saint James Way).
![Saint Chely d'Aubrac, sur le chemin de Compostelle](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-16.jpg)
Every shade of grey can be seen in the stone slate roofs that testify to centuries of local history...
![mosaïque de toits en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-11.jpg)
![détail de lauzes dans un village d'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-26.jpg)
Nasbinals is an important stopover on the Chemin de Compostelle pilgrimage.
![vélo garé devant une auberge pour pélerins à Nasbinal](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-35.jpg)
A coffee stop in the heart of a sleepy, traditional village. Born in the village, the owner took over the family business. She shares her thoughts on the changing times: once lively and animated, the local villages have become mere dormitories. The family business will close when she passes on.
![un ancien bar café en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-2.jpg)
The climb out of Laguiole, famous for its knives, is one we won't forget.
![vélo devant le village de Laguiole](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-10.jpg)
![à vélo sur les pistes qui sillonnent l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-3.jpg)
The cool earth and fresh air of the forest is a welcome break from the sun. it's too late in the year for blueberries, but there are plenty of blackberries on the edge of the forest.
![](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-33.jpg)
![le soleil dans la silhouette d'un arbre](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-12.jpg)
A sudden change of decor! The humid forests and small lakes of the "boraldes" contrast with the arid plateau.
![coin de bivouac devant un lac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-17.jpg)
Someone's looking for a shelter for the night...
![un crapaud se cache dans un petit sac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-18.jpg)
Some local produce for dinner!
![truites locales](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-19.jpg)
![vélo voyageur dans les alpages d'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-22.jpg)
The Bois de Laguiole is home to a rich flora, highlighted by the Sentier d’Observation Écologique et Botanique. The forest clearings are home to heather and rich peaty earth.
![pause pique-nique dans les bruyères sur l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-9.jpg)
![rencontre entre 1 voyageuse à vélo et des vaches](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-5.jpg)
"Burons", long stone houses, are dotted around the plateau. They were traditionally used as pasture houses where cheese was made throughout the summer months. A semi-underground section was used for cheese conservation and maturing.
![un buron, maison longue typique de l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-23.jpg)
Steeped in history, the plateau is home to numerous iron and stone crosses that line the pilgrims paths.
![croix de fer sur le pont de Marchastel](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-36.jpg)
Testimony to the Christian presence during the Middle Ages, the crosses have guided and protected travellers for centuries.
![](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-32.jpg)
Built in the 16th century, the majestic Pont de Marchastel crosses the Bès River.
![vélos sur le Pont de Marchastel en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-37.jpg)
A cultural voyage in the heart of the Aubrac. A photo by the celebrated photographer Hans Silvester is exhibited in nature. Each autumn the Phot' Aubrac festival celebrates nature photography in all its forms.
![photo d'Hans Silvester en plein air sur l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-24.jpg)
Human stupidity knows no limits... this magnificent portrait by Hans Silvester was pierced by 4 bullet holes.
![](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-25.jpg)
The Chemin de Compostelle sometimes obliges walkers to follow hot tarmac roads for several kilometres, roads we're happy to glide along on our bikes...
![marcheur et voyageurs à vélo sur le chemin de Compostelle en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-38.jpg)
Spring water gushes from a stone fountain. Despite the altitude, the late august days are hot and sunny.
![jeune vététiste se rafraîchissant à une fontaine](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-34.jpg)
The chaotic blocks and heaps of granite in the eastern section of the plateau are the result of successive glacial periods throughout history.
![amas de pierres granitiques en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-39.jpg)
The Roc des Loups and its emblematic granite blocks.
![debout sur les blocs de granit du Roc des Loups](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-31.jpg)
An ancient ritual site or modern land art?
![](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-30.jpg)
The pleasures of wild camping in vast open spaces...
![installation de la tente pour un bivouac sur l'Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-29.jpg)
![bivouac devant les blocs de granit du Roc des Loup](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-28.jpg)
Following ancient walled pilgrims paths, contemplating vast open landscapes, visiting historical villages, the Aubrac is an unforgettable cycling destination...
If you're tempted by an autonomous backroad cycling trip, but need a little help getting started, France Bike Trips offer numerous guided and self-guided cycling tours in France. Si l'envie de partir à vélo sacoches vous séduit, l'agence Velorizons, partenaire de ce reportage, propose des voyages pour s'initier au vélo packing
If you're tempted by an autonomous backroad cycling trip, but need a little help getting started, France Bike Trips offer numerous guided and self-guided cycling tours in France. Si l'envie de partir à vélo sacoches vous séduit, l'agence Velorizons, partenaire de ce reportage, propose des voyages pour s'initier au vélo packing
![vélos sur le chemin de Compostelle en Aubrac](https://www.velo-spirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/aubrac-vs-27.jpg)
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